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Unzipped (1995)

A review by Damian Cannon.
Copyright © Movie Reviews UK 1997

A delightful glance at the machinations of the fashion industry through the eyes and actions of Isaac Mizrahi, cutting-edge designer. A totally ephemeral experience but, daarliing, just look at those colours! Beginning just after Mizrahi's 1994 fashion show, the reviews for his collection are less than sparkling. Somehow Mizrahi has to overcome these negative vibes, rising phoenix-like from the ashes, and what better way to achieve this than to bring forth another show. Casting around for inspiration, which Mizrahi tends to draw from the strangest sources, everything from ouija boards to opera gets thrown into the mix. In a nicely circular pattern, another film (Nanook of the North) provides the well from which Mizrahi's imagination can draw a collection.

Designs of all types are quickly sketched by Mizrahi, a pretty reasonable artist, and just as speedily mutated into something quite different. It's clear that the theme is Eskimo, only with a super-abundance of highly coloured fake fur. The real questions are what fabrics, whether to have skirts short for this collection and does Mizrahi's grandmother like the designs. Jetting all over the place, meeting with fashion editors from various magazines and assorted models, Mizrahi gradually assembles a collection. Lots of famous people, like Eartha Kitt, Sandra Bernhard and Naomi Campbell, drop by to chat. Gradually, in an seemingly random way, designs are selected and fitted to the models. The collection is falling into place.

A lot of the fun in this semi-documentary arises in the relaxed moments, when people are just talking casually. Clips of Mizrahi's childhood, and effusive comments from his mother, show just how devoted he was to clothes from a very early age. Mizrahi dances, sings and takes a bath in front of the camera. Rather than visit places he's happy to learn everything about Australia from a Flintstones cartoon, incorporating this into his feel for fashion. Pictures and sketches are everywhere, covering the walls in his apartment and littering the office desks. This really is an entertaining look into the creative process. However, although the Eskimo theme seems unique it turns out that Jean-Paul Gaultier has had the same idea and comes out with a collection first. What will happen to Mizrahi, now that it's too late to change course?

There's much to like about this peek into the fashion industry, especially with someone as unusual as Isaac Mizrahi sitting at the focus of American culture and filtering it through his sensibilities. The clothes he produces really are impressive, bright and powerful garments which nonetheless work as a whole and look fine on a posse of tall, thin models. In contrast to certain other movies, almost everyone comes across as genuinely likable (if a little obsessed with the fashion world). The documentary feel is enhanced by a selection of film stocks, from grainy black and white to saturated colour, and lots of jumpy hand-held camera work. Some excellent effects are achieved with over-exposing the film, so that the background is washed-out and brightness enhanced, and adding short excerpts of colour footage into the middle of B&W scenes. None of this really adds up to much of course, since the movie is just as much of a facade as the fashion industry itself. However, the buzz of celebrities and cool clothes is enough to satisfy.


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